46th day Varel to Bad Bramstedt

Distance: 167km
Total: 4558km

Best night for a while, maybe the empty stomach? Didn't manage to get the tent dry in morning sun. Started slow advance on low energy. At 11km found small shop and got bread and salami. After 40km took ferry over Washer to Bremenhaven, which is rather large city with major dock facilities.

Day was sunny with clouds temperature around +27°C, humidity rose over the day. Next ferry over Elbe was at 110km mark, and it had long line of cars waiting the boarding - heard the waiting time is 1.5 hours for automobiles - bikes and foot passangers didn't have to wait of course.

Drove off from the Elbe and skies started to get more cloudy - and many of the clouds were thunderstorm cloud type. At one point it started to rain hard and I took cover at gas station. When rain became light, I headed out again. Somehow along this rain hiding I had taken wrong road, which forced me to back trace a bit and take a route  I hadn't planned to take.

In Kellinghusen I got totally confused by cycle route sign saying 29.5km to Bad Bramstedt, and as it was late already many things crossed in my mind already - it was also raining with thunderstorm at same time. Finally I understood to check my 'new' map and it showed the distance to be 13km via normal road, I wonder how they managed that long cycling route...

It was getting pretty dark and it was still raining, when I decided to make the final dash - as Kellinghusen didn't have campsite. It rained all the way, and I was pretty flushed, though it was warm rain. After bit searching found the campsite and managed to reach someone. It was only a bit light left, so wanted to get the tent before it would be totally dark, but then came this guy who just pointed me to come with him - he didn't really speak the common language, but he wanted me to sleep in small light summer house - which I had nothing against. Thanks for the helpful attitude despite lack of common language.

Tomorrow should get to Travemunde, and I have zero idea when the ships sail - guess I'll go to the port and figure it out - hope at least daily.

45th day Midwolda to Varel

Distance: 136km
Total: 4391km

Didn't sleep much; firstly at about midnight started a thunderstorm - or more like electrical storm - everything kept being illuminated by the continuous lightning and that was backed up by continuous noise of thunderstorm. It didn't however ever come on top of the campsite, and shortest major flash to major sound I got about 5 seconds. It also rained heavily every now and then. All and all lasted couple hours.

If the thunderstorm kept me awake late, something else woke me up early. First woke up on some noises, from which one was the sound of cuckoo, which is quite usual along the journey, so I just turned and tried ignore it as usual and continue the sleep. This time however the sound was unusually loud and couldn't sleep. So after a while decided to take a peek outside to see how the weather was like. And there was a sizeable cuckoo 5 meters from my tent eating worms (or something) from the ground and being noisy in cuckooish way.

Day started after that normally - yet bit slowish. It was brilliant bit over 20°C with 'ordered' southwest wind.
It was only 20 kilometers to German border, which was just a small light traffic bridge. Landscape didn't change much, but separate cycling lanes and roads disappeared and cycling paths went along small roads. Also the layout of housing changed from tight villages/towns and fields between them to more spread out housing with more distance between centers.

At border I had to make choice to take more norther or souther route and opted for norther one as it seemed less populated and was more in line with tailwind. And tailwind indeed was great, 25km/h with minimal effort and 30km/h still easily. Fun lasted until Ditzum, where was the linchpin of the norther route, a ferry over the river, which of course had just few minutes before left and would come back in half hour AND then take an hour lunch break. So there I sat 1.5 hours just waiting.

After the ferry the tailwind was still with me and was able to cover good distance. Went eat in Wiesmoor and realized its Sunday, so had to eat in restaurant. Sad thing is that can't fill my empty food stack for the evening or the morning, so the broccoli pizza better last next ~16 hours. Think its gonna be slow morning ride without energy tomorrow.

Found a campsite about 10km after Varel and camped up on campsite with some cow aroma in the air.

47th day Bad Bramstedt to Travemunde

Distance: 92km
Total: 4650km

Woke up in my little hut excited to finally have the possibly last cycling day for the trip. Weather was sunny and only my shoes and socks, that were wet were uncomfortable to wear. Cycling pants went to 'steering wheel' for first 25km to dry.

Made my way to Bad Sepelberg along the road 206's side 'velobahn' and after on smaller roads to Lubeck as 206 became autobahn. Had a short break for some additional breakfast in Lubeck and also drove through the old city. Didn't want to waste too much time as had no idea, when the ferry to Finland is gonna leave - and thanks to German policy with Wi-Fi, its practically impossible to reach internet from Germany easily.

Cycled towards Travemunde, and on the way there was bus parked along the street and apparently had to take it to just get under the short tunnel - bus was free though. Went all way to centrum of Travemunde only to find out I need to go back couple kilometers for the right terminal. The terminal for scandinavian traffic was a big building with offices, small restaurant and 'traveler's shop'. The Finnlines office would open at 19.00, so had to wait to know is there room in the ship and if there is, buy the ticket.

From here on started to meet quite few finnish people, and had couple chats with them. The ticket office opened at 19.00 and got my salty price ticket for me and bicycle for 185€ (155+30), which is pretty high compared to say flying. Heard the reason is the monopoly of Finnlines on the rouse, but next year Viking line going to open a competing route so the prices might come down somewhat.

The gates to loading waiting area opened at 20.30 and got access to ship around midnight - so all in all the day was mostly waiting, if would have known the timetables could have spent more time in Lubeck or so. Anyways as don't have cabin just bitter one of seating areas with sleeping pad and sleeping bag and went in sleeping mode - ship is supposed to sail at 03.00.

44th day Marrum to Midwolda

Distance: 124km
Total: 4255km

Morning was extremely humid, and a look outside of tent revealed thick fog everywhere. Had to pack pretty wet tent as no way for it to dry in that humid fog. Started the day driving along the dyke to northeast, straight on headwind, which was pretty strong - so the endless fog must be coming from the sea then.

Made my way to Lauwersoog and both headwind and fog persisted, there was a lot sheep fenced on the dyke and the road was pretty messy at times because of the sheep. Was not much landscapes seen most of the day because of the fog. It also became rather heavy driving as humidity was waaay up and temperature had also risen over +25°C - everything just was little wet and air heavy to breath.

In Middelstum things changed; I was having a break on outskirts of the town - enjoying something horrible I bought from Aldi store - suddenly it started to come darker, car lights really showed up over distance etc, wondered whats going on here, first gusts made me decide I might not want to be here on the open with some stuff out for a break. As I was closing last panniers, big drops started to land, 10 seconds and the shower was on full throttle, 30 seconds later I might swell have had a swim with all clothes on. Hurried under some tree cover, which didn't do good job at stopping rain, and pulled on the 'rain' coat - which was totally soaked soon also, but kept me bit warmer.

The thunderstorm was a turn point on weather though; temperature dropped and after the rain was gone all of the fog was gone. It made really good driving weather, as wind was gone also - only bad side wet roads and wet me.

Finding a campsite wasn't hard - first one was called 'Kleine Finland' so had to check it out, unfortunately there was nobody on reception and it seemed pretty empty apart from some people in cabins. Second campsite had just note - gone vacation, back 3rd of august. 3rd campsite was open and taking people - although reception was empty, but provided a phone number to summon someone to reception.

Tomorrow more to east - hope the winds are more favorable.

43rd day Amsterdam to Marrum

Distance: 164km
Total: 4131km

Day started on crowded campsite - few were awake at 7.30am, when I woke up. It was cloudy and it also threw few drops down. Dunno why, but none of campsite's toilets had any toilet paper, so had to use my own. Maybe the guy sleeping on toilet floor ate it all.

Managed out of Amsterdam pretty easily and on road next to channel got nice pull help from 5 pro looking cyclists - it was educational experience to drive in a group. Did about 13km with them on steady 30km/h speed. After my wind cover was gone felt the rest of day the headwind slowing me down, but had decided to make some kilometers - so kept cycling.

The 30km long dyke drive middle of water was specially hard as the wind had some force against me, also the high humidity made sure the skin stayed wet whole day attaching all sand on the skin surface. Seems like my knees start to hurt first when doing couple hours of hard cycling.

Ate a pizza in Harlingen, first pizza for a quite a while, but after eating the knees didn't first really agree with driving, but got better when warmed up. Its kind of funny to watch towards the sea over farmland and see the never ending wall in horizon to keep the sea away.

As a total opposite to the Amsterdam's mass camping site, tonight's site is one of those mini camping sites. Got actually tour to toilets, showers and tent places by the host. You don't really need to ask which type I like more - mini camping was also cheaper.

42nd day Katwijk to Amsterdam

Distance: 62km
Total: 3967km

Another cloudy morning - did my morning routines as normal and as I was coming out from morning wash, noticed that its raining outside. Ugh - and Ieft my tent and few other things to dry on open. Continued on LF-1b cycling route along the coast till Haarlem and then took bicycle roads to Amsterdam. Hitted the campsite that my German friend had recommended by 1pm.

So next off to town - after setting up the camp. On route to ferry to cross the waterway to the centrum, went to buy something to drink from a shop on the way. Inside the shop everything was in Russian - okay guess Amsterdam has sizeable Russian speaking population.

Centrum was pretty crowded, and indeed there was a lot bicycles - sometimes going on fast speeds with bells ringing, cars weren't as numerous in the centrum. There indeed was plenty of channels and boat traffic on them around the city. Most of the centrum was pretty narrow walking streets with a lot people and different kinds of storefronts. Red lights district was also found, but had little activity such early. Coffee shops were all over and certain sweet smell was pretty common, also they have IT on everything; ice cream, lollipops, cookies... Also diversity of people from all over the world is presented here pretty well.

Back on the campsite the blue lighted toilets/showers really worked to make you like a zombie - maybe the veins were harder to find also. Campsite looks like pretty much tents only and has a lot guests - mostly the younger sort. No wonder as its just couple kilometers from centrum including a free ferry over the larger waterway.

Let's see if it ever comes quiet here... spanish sound a noisy bunch.

41st day Burgh-haamstede to Katwijk

Distance: 127km
Total: 3905km

It rained! It actually rained a bit during the night, it been a while since last time in Linz. It was pretty coldish morning with temperature probably bit under +20°C, drove to first village/town centrum and bought some breakfast from Spar - muesli yoghurt and bread. It was cloudy, so it didn't really get warmer than +25°C until later when it cleared up.

Coast of the Netherlands seems to be sand dunes mostly with rest covered with concrete on vast dock areas. And at this time of the year the coast is really full of people - heard many Germans migrate here for the summer and empirical evidence supports also this claim.

Made quite big 'useless' trip towards Rotterdam, which gave me at least 20km extra loop eastwards. Took ferry over Rotterdam waterway, which had plenty of big container ships sailing along it - and which answers lack of bridge over it. After crossing the waterway and cycling north, it seems that landscape has become more urban as there's no longer fields, but everything is covered by housing with more intense and higher housing in centrums. Haag was basically big area of intense housing with some bigger churches and taller buildings in the nexus.

Not much pictures were taken as the battery overheating problem surprised me early and it had eaten all battery before I was able to boot it. This also affected the flow of the day as had no idea how much the clock is, thus camped up much earlier than usually.

The movement north can also be noticed by much longer days (light time) than earlier. Maybe I'll manage Amsterdam tomorrow...